Discovering the Marais, one of the oldest neighborhoods in Paris

The Marais: a must in Paris

To begin with, it should be noted that the Marais is not strictly speaking a “neighborhood” in the administrative sense of the term: it is in fact not on the list of 80 neighborhoods - 4 per district - to which we have been referring since 1860. Some of them, such as the Enfants-Rouges or the Archives, are on the other hand part of the Marais as it was defined as a protected sector in 1964: we are thus talking about 126 hectares spread over the 3rd and 4th districts, which present “an exceptional architectural heritage”, whether it is a witness to the aristocratic Paris of the 17th and 18th centuries, but also to the industrial activity of the 19th and 20th centuries, which present “an exceptional architectural heritage”, whether it is a witness to the aristocratic Paris of the 17th and 18th centuries, but also to the industrial activity of the 19th and 20th centuries.

A stroll between historic sites and good addresses

Let's start our walk in Haut-Marais at the Arts-et-Métiers and Temple metro stations. To gain strength, direction I/O coffee, a Danish-inspired coffee shop that offers a few pastries and other cinnamon rolls as an accompaniment to its delicious caffeinated drinks.

Then head to the Carreau du Temple going through the Temple Square - Elie Wiesel, in which the botanical walk is particularly pleasant: take a look at its industrial architecture from the end of the 19th century which, since its rehabilitation in the 2010s, hosts more than 90 events per week (projections, shows, shows, concerts, concerts, meetings and other fairs).

Then head on The Enfants-Rouges Market, a veritable institution built in 1615 at the request of Louis XIII. Open every day except Monday, it is simply the oldest covered market in the capital. People come here to take a tour of the world on a plate, since there are many stands with various influences (Moroccan, Japanese, Auvergne...).

Among our favorite addresses, reserved for big appetites: Chez Alain Miam Miam, where the king of snacks (Alain, therefore) delivers gargantuan sandwiches filled with quality ingredients. Another slightly more “healthy” option for lunch, just a stone's throw away: Berry Coffee, whose Basque cheesecake is recommended, although the whole menu is worth a visit. Speaking of detours, take a short detour to get to Passage de l'Ancre, on the borders of the Marais: pass the Porte Cochère at 223 rue Saint-Martin and land in a paved and flowery alley, with offices and signs with colorful facades.

Going down to the Seine, you will come across one of the most unusual places in the Marais: the Nicolas Flamel's house, or “big gable.” Considered to be the oldest house in Paris, it was built at the beginning of the 15th century by Nicolas Flamel and his wife Pernelle.

Culturally speaking, the offer in the Marais is abundant: in a restricted area are in fact the Museum of Jewish Art and History (located in the former mansion of Saint-Aignan), the National Archives Museum (with a sublime garden out of sight), the unusual Museum of Hunting and Nature or even the Museum dedicated to the painter Pablo Picasso. Not to mention the Cognacq-Jay Museum as well as the Carnavalet Museum.

In the middle of all these places, an open-air museum, or almost: Impasse des Arbalestriers, which has everything of a medieval cul-de-sac (irregular pavements, gutters, etc.) and is now the favorite playground of many street artists. Those who have learned their history lessons well may remember that this is where the Duke of Orleans was assassinated in 1407.

When snack time strikes, let's continue our cultural momentum by going to the Librairie La Mouette Rieuse : designed as a place to live, it has a seasonal à la carte café where it is good to settle down to work, or to simply enjoy a pastry while starting a good novel.

The Dormouse in the Teapot, with its adorable frame that transports us to the universe of Alice in Wonderland, is another great option for a sweet break. It's difficult to advise you on a dessert as they are all divine, but the lemon pie topped with its XXL meringue is definitely one of our favorites.

To digest, go admire Saint-Paul-Saint-Louis church, probably the most beautiful religious building in the Marais. Cited in Victor Hugo's Les Misérables, it is the church where his sadly known daughter, Léopoldine, married in real life in 1843. Classified as a historic monument, it was the first Jesuit church in Paris built thanks to the financing of Louis XIII, and the first to abandon the traditional Gothic style for the Baroque style. On the second pillar on the right after the entrance, you can decipher a curious message, almost erased: “French Republic or Death”, probably written during the first days of the Paris Commune.

Then, why not take a short trip to Village Saint-Paul, where antique shops, art galleries and traditional restaurants mingle? A place to stroll out of time where you can enjoy passages in the shade and silence. Another curiosity to discover in the lower part of the Marais: the half-timbered houses on Rue François Miron, which we'll let you admire at numbers 11 and 13 exactly. Often identified as the oldest houses in Paris, they actually date from the 16th century.

We end this day in the Marais with one of its most emblematic streets, also steeped in history: the Rue des Rosiers, particularly popular with the Jewish community. It is good to walk there on Sundays because it is entirely pedestrian on this day! The opportunity to enjoy a falafel on the go (the best is, they say, at The Falafel Ace, but be prepared to wait in line), or to try a Yiddish specialty at the Yellow Shop, open since 1946 - pastrami sandwich, bagel and other strudel.

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At the end of the day, it is also pleasant to have a drink on the Place du Marché Sainte-Catherine, less known - and less expensive - than its neighbor, the Place des Vosges.

Conclusion

The Marais, in the heart of Paris, is full of cultural places and good addresses to (re) discover. Stroll through its streets to enjoy its beauty! Do you want to live in the neighborhood? Kyka helps you to find your future little gem ✨