From Bastille to Oberkampf, lively life in eastern Paris
For this new stroll, go to Place de la Bastille, at the foot of the historic July Column, built in the middle of the 19th century. From there, let's take a look at The Bastille Opera, designed by Carlos Ott, and inaugurated in 1989 for the bicentenary of the French Revolution. Then, off to the picturesque Cour Damoye, whose main entrance - and unsuspected - is located at 12 rue de la Bastille. A peaceful place to start our visit to this bustling neighborhood in the greatest of calm, surrounded by greenery. The best season to tread the pavements of this paved alley is certainly spring, when blossoming wisteria color the storefronts of the shops and offices nestled there.
Then let's take the path of Sully Hotel, a must in the Marais district with its orangery, courtyard and garden: after observing the allegories of its facades, take the secret passage by pushing the pavilion door on the right, which gives access to the Place des Vosges. We take the opportunity to have breakfast at Carette, a Parisian tea room in essence, but which always has a small effect: pastries, macarons, pastries... You will be spoilt for choice, but don't miss their decadent hot chocolate.
This is also where the Victor Hugo's house, which can be visited by reservation only, every day except Wednesday: ideal for a digestive break in the footsteps of one of the greatest French writers.
Once you're full, in every sense of the word, head for Boulevard Richard Lenoir, which leads directly to the Oberkampf district. Every Thursday and every Sunday, it comes alive according to the Bastille Market, one of the most gourmets in the capital. If you're still hungry, stop by the “Papy Chichi” pit stop, who makes churros faster than his shadow. Another place to do gourmet shopping: The Plisson House, Boulevard Beaumarchais, where more than a thousand fresh artisan and delicatessen products are listed.
Going up, we strongly recommend a lunch break at Dawn, where the dynamic Carrie Solomon sends very tasty plates and more than appetizing brunches. The Must ? Deviled eggs”, with their spicy mayo and other very “pornfood” side dishes.
Let's continue our journey by going up along Richard Lenoir Boulevard: on your right, admire the Cirque d'Hiver, built in 1852 by the architect Jacques Hittorff, and classified as a Historic Monument. Its statues, friezes and other reliefs are particularly worth a visit.
Here we are finally at the Oberkampf station, known for being the epicenter of nightlife in this part of Paris. But the neighborhood is also very pleasant to explore by day, with gems to discover and several curiosities. Let's start by having coffee at Dreamin' Man, a pocket coffee shop where as soon as we arrive a few notes from a Neil Young hit escape from an old radio set...
We take advantage of being in the neighborhood to go in front of the Bataclan, a legendary theater that is now sadly known, whose architecture is striking: inaugurated in 1865, it was in fact imagined by its architect, Charles Duval, as a pastiche of Chinese architecture. Thus, we find a facade in flashy colors, XXL statues of Buddhas and dragons on the cornices.
Change of atmosphere with the Cité du Figuier, which can be reached at the number 104-106 of Oberkampf Street. Away from bars, this bucolic haven of peace is punctuated by small houses with colorful facades - don't miss the one with the turquoise facade and its elephant frieze! Formerly, this working-class city housed metallurgy workshops.
For a sweet break at snack time, two options. First choice: the Bakery Utopia, which offers several creations based on black sesame, including an original rolled version but also madeleines. Otherwise, we also recommend one of the best vegan addresses in Paris, Today Tomorrow : both a concept store and a restaurant, the place serves delicious pancakes and granola bowls, in addition to an enticing savory menu. Serve with hot apple juice and spices when it's cold outside.
We end the day with a drink at Little Red Door, ranked among the best cocktail bars in the world. To find it, it's very simple: rely on its... little red door, quite simply. Difficult to leave its subdued atmosphere and velvet armchairs, but you have to have a good dinner, and for that we have the address you need!
Return to Bastille at the Grande Brasserie, a timeless restaurant with dishes from the repertoire of bourgeois cuisine. Burgundy snails, pie crust, tartare with a knife, salmon with sorrel, but also fritoles and crème brulee... we don't know where to turn. What a wonderful way to end this day between tradition and modernity.